Dung Kai-cheung, 1997 [Dung Kai-cheung,
Anders Hansson, and Bonnie S. McDougall 2012]
(June 2014)
Hong Kong is a pretty special city. I’ve
only been a couple of times, and at this stage of my life I imagine actually
living there would fairly rapidly end up with my appearance in local newspaper
stories with the word ‘rampage’ in the headline, but as a place to visit it’s
really like nowhere else I’ve been. Even trying to begin to unpack the various interweaving
narratives of globalization, (post)colonialism, trade, capital, and belonging
that wrap around every stone of the city is a herculean task, and one I’m
certainly not up to in a 700 word blog post.
First among these is the way it’s framed. Atlas is set up as an academic treatise
written by a researcher in an indeterminate future. The first part is, as with
all research papers, a literature review, which invokes Borges and Calvino and
sets us up for the way maps do not merely represent reality, but in many ways
construct it. It’s pretty dense stuff, as the unnamed narrator delves into the
relations between the abstract and the concrete and the role of the former in realising
the latter; how lines on a map do not merely depict the real world, but also,
or even primarily, create it.
The later parts of the book move on to a
series of short essays about the city of Victoria, which both is and is not
Hong Kong as viewed through the distorting lens of time and slightly
over-zealous semiotic analysis. And this is the second saving grace for Atlas, because as the book progresses
the fantastical elements become ever more outlandish. They never quite push
past the outer limits of plausibility, but instead skirt them often enough for
you to realize that in amongst all the other stuff going on in this book there’s
also a wry little dig at the academy’s penchant for po-faced over-interpretation
of otherwise quite mundane objects and phenomena.
Atlas was originally published in Cantonese (the ‘dialect’ of Hong Kong
and South China, as opposed to the prestige Mandarin ‘dialect’ of Beijing and
the North) in 1997, just after the British handover, and this book is suffused
with the transitory, liminal air of a state unanchored in both place and time.
So in a way it’s a slight disappointment that knowing a bit about the city
makes the jokes more real. While I am very far from an expert, I was able to
nod along with the recognition to a couple of little gags at the expense of
various chunks of architecture and city planning, and I imagine anyone with
more extensive knowledge would find much much, more to recognize. This
recognition can only act as an anchor, denying that very fluidity between the
abstract and the real, the representation and the represented, and this seems
to me to work slightly against the spirit of the book.
To be fair though, I’m probably not the
intended audience and the way in which this obviously very local affair which simultaneously
has an inextricably global dimension is one of the many fascinating aspect of Atlas. I would be lying if I said it
contained a compelling narrative or sympathetic characters, for it has both
none and many of either and both, but that’s not the point. The point is, well…
the point is best demonstrated by the map below, which China released as I was
reading this. It’s ‘vertical’ not ‘horizontal’ you see? And apparently the ten little red lines drifting in the ocean indisputably and irrevocably prove China’s
claims to the South China Sea. The map is not the territory, but what is the
territory without a map?
Hong Kong is very much unlike anywhere else; whereas Singapore is much like anywhere else. That's an arguable précis, but it's my heuristic for the two overseas Chinese cities. I have to point out that I visited them some time ago: HK in '93 and Singapore in '96. I do not feel the need to go to either again, especially Singapore, as I could go to any Chinese mall north of Toronto for a similar experience. HK? Still fascinating, but the only way I'd go now is a season without filth blown in from the Mainland, and in hotels expensive enough not to have food from there either: not in my budget.
ReplyDeleteI know the Borges story you refer to. Maps are fascinating. No geography grad but have studied thousands of maps since childhood and cannot register the cartographic illiteracy of much of the population, including my wife.
I think you'd need a local guide or two to get the best out of a place like either of the two. Lord knows that with it's malls and moving walkways HK can feel a bit like a massive departure lounge at times, so the mall analogy is apt. In a bubble but so definitely not.
DeleteOn tangent, I figure we're as likely to get the Chinese dust in Japan as HK, sadly. You're well off out of it, my friend.
Glad you finally read this! It's probably aimed more at you than at me, but I enjoyed it nonetheless. I think the part about turning the city into a spaceship (or just an airship?) was my favorite.
ReplyDeleteThe airport bit? Yeah, I liked that, especially having visited the airport since it was built. This was written while the new place was still being planned, I think. I like the way this book really opens out towards the end and just gets progressively more outlandish. It's a slow burn, that's for sure.
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